Saturday, June 30, 2012

roasted tomato & scallion tart with a whole wheat cheese crust

Heirloom Tomato Tart Heirloom Tomato TartHeirloom Tomato TartHeirloom Tomato Tart


It's tomato season, or 'mater season as it were, and summer is bearing down on us with apocalyptic might. I find myself daily brewing iced tea with new found diligence, but being a cold natured thing (and arguably a masochist), I actually rather enjoy the heat. It's thick, substantial. Heat slows us down, forces us to rest, to retreat. It reminds me of New Orleans' summers draped in weeping Spanish moss, of channelling Blanche DuBois à la Vivien Leigh in A Street Car Named Desire, and of watching Jim Jarmusch films in a dilapidated mansion on Magazine Street when I was twenty years old wearing nothing but high heels, lingerie, and red lipstick with a nameless three-legged cat, drinking gin until I couldn't speak. Suffering is very authentically southern after all. Summers every where are hotter than ever, but my internal climate is milder now. The only thing I sip these long afternoons is hibiscus iced tea, but I still feel like a green eyed Vivien Leigh when I stretch out in the sun on the front porch in nothing but a slip, brushing the little black ants off my legs as lazy beads of perspiration roll down both my glass of tea and my forehead or when, in the muggy evenings, I sit at our dining room table eating a midnight snack of cornbread in a tall glass of buttermilk with a spoon, windows open to the strobing fireflies & the chorus of crickets. It may be painfully hot, but this sweltering season is also, in my opinion, painfully short. 



Heirloom Tomato Tart



Each time I go to the market, I try to buy up a pint of sweet Sun Golds before they rapidly disappear from the vendors' tables to eat on the way home like grapes. These ephemeral fruits are precious. There is no substitute for a warm summer tomato, and when the season is over it's over. Canning will keep you well into the winter, but it's still not the same as biting into a fresh tomato. I don't think they should be tampered with much, and recipes that feature them prominently and simply do them the most justice. This is one such recipe. And the best part is almost every single ingredient is from right here in Chattanooga and can be procured at the various markets around town.



cherry tomatoes

Shredded Cumberland Cheese
Sequatchie Cove Creamery "Cumberland" cheese

Ariel's Flour
Heirloom Tomato Tart

Roasted Cherry Tomato & Scallion Tart in a Whole Wheat Cumberland Cheese Crust

adapted from Not Without Salt

This tart is good warm, room temperature, or cold and would make excellent picnic fare for the upcoming Fourth of July. The crust tastes like an excellent cheese cracker, and the tomatoes are intensely jammy. The whole thing is simple to make and involves little more than mixing cheese, flour, and butter; patting it into a tart or pie pan, and filling it with fresh tomatoes. It bakes for slowly for an hour allowing the crust to get golden & crispy and the tomatoes caramelize.

Heirloom Tomato Tart

Ingredients


For the cheese crust:
1 cup whole wheat flour
4 ounces melted butter
1 cup finely shredded Cumberland cheese or cheese of your choice
1/2 tsp thyme leaves, chopped
1/2 tsp salt


For the filling:
1 pint cherry tomatoes (about 2 cups), halved
3 scallions, thinly sliced, white and light green parts only
1 tsp thyme leaves, chopped
1 Tbsp olive oil
2 tsp honey (or to taste)
salt and pepper to taste

{notes on ingredientsI used Ariel's whole wheat pastry flour from the Sunday Market, but Sonrisa, sometimes at the Wednesday market, also have a nice whole wheat flour. The butter is procured from the Brainerd Market on Saturday at Grace Episcopal Church, and Cumberland cheese is made by the Sequatchie Cove Creamery and is available at Whole Foods & the Wednesday Main St. Farmer's Market. Tomatoes, scallions, honey, and thyme can be procured at pretty much any market in town.}

Heat oven to 350° F.

Toss all fillings for ingredient in a medium mixing bowl. Set aside.

Cut melted butter into the flour in a medium bowl with fingers. Stir in cheese, thyme, and salt, mixing well to ensure there are no clumps. Pat crust thinly into a 9" tart pan.

Heirloom Tomato Tart

Top with tomato scallion mixture and bake for 1 hour or until crust is deep golden.

Let tart cool on a wire rack for at least 10 minutes, 20 if you want to serve it room temperature. Remove slices carefully, as crust is very tender and deliciously crumbly. Best served with a lightly dressed green salad followed by a blueberry, basil, goat cheese hand pie (recipe up next!) and a tall glass of iced tea!

Heirloom Tomato Tart

Heirloom Tomato Tart

23 comments:

  1. This is a beautiful presentation. I will be on my way to the farmer's market for some tomatoes.

    Your writing and your photography are works of art. Just beautiful.

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    1. Thank you again! And thanks for the comment tip, glad it's working now!

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  2. Sometimes I get frustrated with summer exactly for her heat. She slows me down do the extent that entire days pass with me not accomplishing much more than a firefly. But you're right! It's too short. Too soon the heat will leave, and I'll be my normal unable-to-sit-still self, blood moving again like a red motorcycle just escaped a traffic jam, and I'd do best to lounge.

    And make this. Also, I do THE SAME THING with my little green carton of candy tomatoes en transit chez moi after the marché.

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    1. I too have trouble slowing down. A million thoughts, a million projects. The heat makes me sit and soak up life, mostly because I have no choice. It's nice to feel so very languid and southern.

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    2. Here to say that, with intentions of making this for more than a week, I finally did. And it was delicious. My host family loved it. Unfortunately, they ate it too quickly and I've no photographic evidence. I replaced the Cumberland (I have no idea how that would translate or if it even exists in southern France...) with mozzarella. Thereby, the butter with olive oil since, well, I used mozzarella. So good!

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  3. yummy looking tart and i will certainly keep it in mind when the tomatoes come in. how do you think it would be as crumble rather than a tart? the pie crust looks as though it would work as one and i think it would get all brown and yummy baked on top.

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    1. I'm not sure. I think if the butter was kept cold and cut in instead of melted it could work as a lovely savory crumble topping. My only concern w/ inverting this particular recipe would be that the crumble would get *too* brown before the tomatoes had fully caramelized and gotten all nice and jammy. I'm sure it could be done though, might just take a wee bit of tweak. It would be worth getting right & would be great in individual ramekins!

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  4. Your writing brings me back to the sweltering summers I remember growing up on the East Coast, where in my previous life, I could sympathize with the oppressive heat of the south and possibly, Blanch DuBois. Fabulous book! Makes me want to re-read that classic.

    I do know what you mean about these seasons being painfully short - how sad to think that the bounty of tomatoes and summer fare will be gone before we know it. This tart is stunning and I must must try it.

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  5. This tart looks sublime! Once in a while I think that life would be worth much less if ripe tomatoes didn't exist. But that's just me...
    That first paragraph is very well written.

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  6. This is so beautiful. I love the deep red of the tomatoes. The addition of a bit of honey sounds perfect!

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  7. This looks absolutely heavenly! I wish I could get my hands on a bite of that crust!

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  8. I made this today and it was absolutely beautiful! When eating it, it seemed light and so moreish however you eventually feel in hitting your stomach! My family loved it also, and I am going to try the leftovers cooled tomorrow. :)

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  9. How many people does this serve?

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    1. Well, at my house it serves 2 hungry people. I would say it serves 2-4 as an entree (with sides) and 4-8 as a starter.

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  10. What kind of cheese is the Cumberland that you use? I am in the UK and can't get hold of it. I notice someone above used mozzarella, is this a good alternative?

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    1. Cumberland cheese is a local cheese here in Tennessee that's inspired by the French "tomme de Savoie". It's a mild buttery cheese with a slight tang, aged 90 days. I think a morbier, raclette, cheddar, or parmesan would all work nicely in this crust. A firm mozzarella would work but wouldn't necessarily be my first choice.

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    2. Thanks for that, I have cheddar and parmesan in the fridge already so I shall try a mix of those 2. I'm making this for my gran's birthday picnic, hope she likes it! Although more for me if she doesn't!

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  12. What would be a healthier alternative for butter?

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    1. Coconut Oil, perhaps? I've never tried it in this recipe though, so I can't say with 100% certainty it would work.

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  13. Roasted tomato scallion tart with whole wheat crust shown here is very tasty and moth watering. You can have fun having it

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